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We're coming onto April and the inevitable spring light that slants through trees at a particular height, angle and shade of amber, lasting just a couple of weeks. When it happens, I'm in Paris.
Above, Don is standing in the clock window of the Orsay museum in 2003. He snapped me, below, the afternoon we rode bikes for hours in the Bois de Boulogne and still didn't see a fraction of it. That's not a surprise when you realize it is two and a half times the size of New York's Central Park. (Believe me, I was very happy, even though I don't seem to be smiling in this photo.)
If you're like me and you want to fly to Paris, but can't at the moment, find a Paris blog, like Peter's wonderful one - full of history, architecture and art, or mine, where I posted just 35 posts mostly in 2006. My blog has been waiting for another visit by its proprietor, but lucky Peter gets to live there.
In 2006, this was the view from my apartment window
in Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine;
I could hear laughter and conversation rising up from the street
through my open window for hours
while I tried to sleep. Ask me if I minded one bit.
I also watched and listened to a storm come in,
which for me is heaven.
Carousel in the Place de Varsovie, across the Seine from the Eiffel Tower; I watched these two men talk while they watched girls walk by.
It was May when the horse chestnuts were in season - beautiful to look at,
but one evening walking the Seine the wind was throwing
chestnut pollen into everyone's eyes. Mine were watering
so I could hardly see, and I began to notice that everyone else
walking was wiping their eyes too.
Most parks in Paris don't make you "stay off the grass" and are full of people at lunch time, well all day really.
The Fauchon food store is a treat for the eyes as well as the stomach. I snapped this outside Fauchon's window, looking in. The reflection creates a puzzle - which is out, which is in?
I think it's best to stay in an apartment, which is more economical than a hotel,
partly because each day you can eat a meal or two at home.
My favorite meal at home:
roquefort bleu cheese, baguette and French beans (haricots verts).
Plus a bottle of red.
Oh dear, I'm working myself up to not being happy with just photos. Either that or I will just keeping posting more and more of them. Pretty soon I'll be in a Paris frénésie!
I wanted to start a business helping folks plan focused, personalized tours of the city, which was part of the point of my 2006 solo trip. I was also celebrating my 50th birthday, thanks to generous family, but no one had time to get away with me! After my loved ones ganged up on me with this idea, first I felt guilty, then I got giddy and decided it would be brilliant to have the week alone and do just what I pleased at any given moment. But by the second day, I longed to talk with Don, my kids, my brothers and sisters, or a friend, about the day. Thankfully I had my laptop and was able to do just that in the evening on google chat. Now, I think ideal travel is with someone, but getting off on your own for at least a few hours here and there to wander down a street or into a shop that beckons you, or to eat Coq au Vin that nobody else cares about.
One idea for focused touring was to explore the haunts of literary American expats Gertrude Stein, Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott Fitgerald, et. al. Another would be to photograph different daily themes: Day 1 -
lampposts; Day 2 -
clocks; Day 3 -
bridges; etc. Like writing a research paper, when you're focused on one thing, you learn about a lot of other things while gaining deeper understanding of the one thing you're researching. I started the
Paris Deconstructed blog as a way into that business plan. But I let it fizzle. Maybe I'll have a chance to pursue it one day, and walk the Seine again.
After working on this post, Thursday I left a new post at
Paris Deconstructed after more than two years. So it is officially out of hiatus. I plan to post something there about once a week, as long as two trips worth of film images hold out, or until my next visit, whichever comes first.
89 comments:
Oh, I get to be first! Ruthie, those pictures are so happy! And I love your idea for a business. I wish the economy wasn't so awful right now so you could get it started right away! We could be your first customers!
What an ideal week you had, but I agree, it would be lonely not to have someone to share it with and wrap your arms around while you strolled along the Seine. Now I'm getting homesick for Paris, and I've never been there! ((sigh))
Good morning, I'd like to book a trip please. I'd like to join you in your research,lamposts,clocks...
I could do the literary thing too, could we add crumb the artist?
I like the idea of wandering by yourself on a trip,a quiet sit in the park,a glass of wine at a cafe,the Paris Antique Market.
Did I read this correctly, you went off to Paris by yourself?
That is crazy good.
The picture of Don is wonderful.
I'm glad you are starting up your old blog.Selfishly, I will have another wonderful blog to visit and about France too!
Bonjour Ruth!
It's always so interesting to see "our" Paris through stranger's eyes. I do enjoy your words and photos.
It's a pity we didn't know each other the last time you came in Paris but maybe we could say it will be nice for the next time?
I agree with you, Peter's blog is a treasure and since I've been lucky enough to meet Peter "in real life", I can say how he is nice too (hope this adjective is correct!).
And it's possible you don't have haricots verts in USA???
A dream trip to a dream city. I was too young and silly to appreciate it when I was there. Thank you for sharing!
Hi, Ruth! Like you I have a passion for Paris and long to fly back every Spring (and also early Autumn, in my case). I have wonderful memories of that most magical of cities.
I just recently found your beautiful blog and photos when I noticed that we both read and comment on Rauf's Daylight Again and on Peter's Paris. Just wanted to let you know that I really enjoy your musings and your photography.
Take care!
You have a wonderful eye and your photos are buoyant. I agree with Susan. Meanwhile, just think about returning to Paris and meeting one of your readers for cafe. How fun! Blogging and photography really open the world to us with human contact behind the lens. It explains a great deal to me about one's POV I might not understand. As for the literary idea, I love that. Great background book would be "Sylvia Beach and the Lost Generation". It's all about Shakespeare & Co and the expats of the twenties & thirties.
Ah!! My dream trip. Someday I hope to see the sights of Paris.
Your photo's are wonderful. I love the window display shot!
If I ever plan a trip...we'll have to talk.
I'm off to revisit Paris Reconstructed now. I loved it the first time I visited. I'm glad to hear you'll be adding to it:)
Beautiful pictures. I want to go to Paris so bad!
I would love een kopje koffie with you Ruth, (a cup of coffee, yes some milk please).
I visit your blog very often, lately not leaving a comment, however now I will.
I visited Fauchon too, we looked in the window and we entered, we bought 2 of the most delicious pieces of pie/cake/pastry ( :( sometimes I have to look for words)
I bought a tiny bottle of brandy, I still have it, sealed.
Paris is one of my favourite cities, I even speak some French, yes with a Dutch accent and I tell right away that I am from Amsterdam.....they might mistake me for German.
I have been travelling alone for many times, it has it advantages, I can go and do as I please, however now I would love to travel together again, to be with somebody to share, to see the beautiful things in the city, in nature, in life.
I just visited your other blog, Paris deconstructed, a joy for they eye, I will read it when I some more time.
Paris, one day I will visit it again, however …..not alone…….
Beautiful images and story Ruth. My oldest Amanda went a few years back, she loved it, she said she did lots of walking, and there is lots of stairs there, she got some fantastic shots as well. My fav was of a nighttime Moon and Eiffel Tower shot.
Honey (Spoken like a sister!)...
I've longed to go to Paris, but with all that has happened in my life the past few years, that dream has had to be shelved for a while.
A couple of times I have looked into it...But the fear of the unknown... language barriers, rumors of the French being somewhat unfriendly to Americans, cost of hotels in town...never did go. I wish I had known you four or five years ago!
Now that we have three grandbabies, my desire to travel has diminished somewhat...For right now, I'd just rather be home and be with them and our sons and daughter-in-laws here at the house, or the zoo or even the park.
As I listen to myself, I sound like an old fuddy-duddy!
What a great idea you had, however! With your wide range of knowledge and your excellent communication skills, I know that you would be PERFECT at helping people plan trips! I'll have to check out your Paris blog in greater depth.
Continued success to you in anything you choose!
Those two top photos are great, very artistic. And it's nice to see a pic of you too.
I love Paris and been there a couple of times. I will post some Paris photos soon! I also love the French countryside and the rotten old houses there. :-)
Ruth--
Given what I read in the comments here--I believe you have a group, myself included, ready to follow you to Paris!
As always, wonderful photography and your affinity to the place makes Paris sparkle even brighter in my dreams.
Thank you for sharing your life, art and thoughts--
Ah bientot
C.
splendid ! its so nice to see Claudia here, All of you can meet in Paris one day.
Thank you for the beautiful pictures of my favorite city in the world. I have been there four times in the past 11 years. If I were to live anywhere else in the world it would be Paris.
My last visit was in June 2008 for a few days after a river cruise up the Rhone River. March 2001 I went with two lady friends for a week and November 2001 I went to Paris by myself and spent a week.
Personally I liked the week by myself the best, because I able to see whatever I wanted to at my own pace.
I very much enjoy seeing Peter's pictures. Now I will visit your Paris site.
Paris in spring sounds so lovely.
I thought I left a comment earlier on how wonderful I thought your business idea was and how I would consult you before I went to Paris again...I'm sure I was very witty and entertaining but it looks like my post was lost...
If you are some day going to Paris with your group or without it, I will fly there too!!
I have been there two times walking and watching - walking and sitting -we even walked with my daughter from La Defense to Louvre . . .
Many, many wonderful memories!
I was just a few days ago "walking" with Lauri in the streets of Paris on Google maps and clicking there a yellow man, who is guiding you to the streets! Try it!
Lauri wanted also walk in New York
and we did it too!
I hope all your dreams will come true!!
AH! Paris is close to my heart. As you know, I have lived in France for 20 years now, but my very first visit was when I was eleven yrs old on a convent aranged exchange trip. I stayed for three weeks with a french family at Gisors not too far from Paris. After getting over my homesickness I fell in love with the French and with France. That feeling never left me and I now consider it my home ! I love your idea for a business, it will be very popular --go for it!Paris is magic!
Oh, how lovely! May I have a window seat, please? But keep the ticket open...
Haven't been in Paris since 1995. This was like a vicarious treart.
I will check out the other blog later. Loved reading your thoughts on this and seeing the photos. Gorgeous photos and I'm anxious to get to the other blog (but my grandkids require a space of time from me so we can go to chuck e cheese, yeah..or not yeah.
Hi, Ruth!
I've left a surprise for you on my blog--with thanks.
Your picture of Don in the Clock window is a Classic!!!
Your love of Paris is certainly evident Ruth.. You made me want to go and I don't even fly.. you make it sound like the most wonderful place in the world for discovery of the culture and for your mind!! Thanks...
I think you should go again soon though... I just think you should.
Absolutely gorgeous photos and beautiful narrative! I adore what you do with your blog for the rest of us. Thank you.
Hello! I was down with the flu for many days. I am trying to recuperate. Really nice pictures. I've never been to Paris. I hope to visit it in the near future. You are very lucky!
P.S. I love Rroquefort cheese, The Sun Also Rises, The Great Gatsby and the picture of your Honey! xxx
Bonjour, Alice! Our Sunday was mild too! Spring is coming to both of us, I'm so glad.
Yes it's a shame we didn't know each other last time I was in Paris! I would love to meet you, and Peter, and Leena too, so much.
Yes, we do have haricots verts in the US, but they are not the same, alas. Don and I will grow them this year! I'll think of you when we eat them. :) I think the secret is picking them early while they're tender.
Bonjour, dear Cathy! Let's go! And Crumb is ready to go too. Will be right at home in fact.
The antique market is one of my favorite day trips. I carried a big round wooden cutting board back to our place on the Métro, and no one seemed worried I was gonna use it.
Yes I got to go for a week alone in 2006! In some ways it was perfect, but I missed having Don or my sisters to share at the end of the day. I live to eat, Cathy, and I have only met Donica who cares about food like I do, so I either have to go with her, or by myself, to the restaurants I dig up.
Sorry, Susie Q! I started responding out of order because they came into my email account that way! Oops! So you commented first, but I didn't respond to your first. :( That's sad.
I so wish you could have gone with David on one of his trips. I think we all have to keep living, even though we have many responsibilities. So we do what we can. For now, I can pretend I'm in Paris now and then through my blogs, and you can too. I'd love to take you one day. I'd know just the right spots.
Hi, J.G., I know what you meant about Paris. I went when I was 19 for 3 days and it felt like I was just ticking off a list of things to see, rushing around. I didn't appreciate it then, not like now. Hope you can go again one day when you can stroll the Seine toward the sinking sun.
A big big bonjour et bienvenue to you, Claudia! Actually I think of Claudia as a beautiful French name, and I love to hear it pronounced "Cloe-dia." I love the Paris light in autumn even more. My sisters and I were there in October. Nothing like Montmartre in that light.
I'm just tickled amber that you came over to visit. I have seen you at rauf's for ages and enjoyed your comments, I didn't realize you also visit Peter, and he you. Your blog is a joy, and I am grateful to have it there now.
Yes, California Girl, Paris would be just the place to meet up with blog friends! That's a good book rec, I haven't read it, but I've read about it online over the years. Did you know George Whitman, current proprietor of Shakespeare & Co, named his daughter after Sylvia? She actually runs the place now. He's like 97!
Dear Anet, I would love to talk about ideas for a trip with you, whenever you're ready. I have a survey that's fairly long, and both you and your travel partner can complete it, and I'll develop a loose plan. The most important thing is to keep lots of open space for wandering and making your own discoveries, which are the ones that matter and you will remember forever. Oh, and the people you meet.
I hope you can, ♥ Kathy. It's just a city, but if you feel the magic, there's nowhere like it.
Hello there, Astrid. I can imagine that you would absorb a lot in any city you visit, you have such a keen and observant eye. Being a photographer can be an advantage because you look for the interesting. Sometimes I have to put the camera down though, and just let in the people and things around me. I think you do that too.
Oh, Bob, you reminded me of the time my sister Nancy and I decided to take the Métro from the airport into the city. It was a good idea, and I'm glad I did it at least once. But pulling suitcases up and down the Métro stairs was a feat!
You loved your daughter's photo with the moon?? :D It must have been gorgeous. And now you get to see the Great Wall with the moon - and eclipsed sun!
Ah, CottageGirl, thank you for such nice words. The thing is, I LOVE to plan these trips, it is not only effortless, it energizes me.
Fuddy-duddy?? The day I have grandbabies my poor children will wonder when I'll go away. That adventure, that discovery - a new life, a new outlook - would trump Paris or any other trip any day of the year. And talk about learning a new language!
I do dream of traveling to Paris with the whole family one day, oh and back to Istanbul too.
Hi, Helena, rotten old houses? Said tongue in cheek maybe??
Sorry, because of weekend I found this post only now! First, thanks so much for the honour you make me by referring to my blog!
I have almost tears in my eyes when I read about your love for Paris! (I knew it of course already.)
I sincerely hope that we will be able to meet here one day. The idea of walking around for a Hemmingway or Scott F. tour together with you fascinates me. (They moved around quite a bit, there will be long nice walks.) - I already did the bridges and the lamp-posts, but would be happy to do it again! :-)
I'm also happy that you found the way to Claudia's blog, which I think is phantastic, but not enough visited!
I already rechecked your Paris blog... so nice that you put a stop to the hiatus!
Ohh, C.M., I just came back from your place, listening to Georgia O'Keefe talk about her special place - NM, and you on your affinity for Italy too. Sometimes we're lucky enough to visit a place that brings out our best self. And suddenly we are alive, as if for the first time. We wonder what our life was before that? Then we take that place with us wherever we go. Even if I never return to Paris, Paris is in me, I even bring it here to the farm. I can't help it, it's part of me now.
rauf, I'm so glad I've met Claudia. Her place is gorgeous, and as Peter wrote, under-visited!
And you, won't you get your passport and join us in Paris? I would love to see the people through your lens.
Dakota Bear, it's nice to hear from you about Paris. I would like to live there at least a month someday. My French is only enough to not be rude walking in someone's door, then I revert to English. It is wrong of me to rely on their knowing it, yet I don't learn theirs. I have no excuse.
Pouty, it's a cliché, I know, but as with many things that become clichés, there is good reason. It really is special.
Yes, Oliag, you're not dreaming, you left a comment at Paris Deconstructed! And yes, it was very witty and entertaining. Please let me know when you're going, and you can take my survey, then I'll make you a loose plan! One with plenty of space to explore on your own.
My dear Leena, that must have been a very long walk, some miles. In fact I have never been to La Defense!
No, I have not tried the Google map tour, it sounds like a lot of fun though. And NYC too! We'll be in NYC in a couple of weeks. I don't know how much sight-seeing we'll be doing though, I just want to be with our daughter and her beau.
I think you are ready for spring, even with all your snow.
Delphine, bonjour! To live in a chateau, and so close to Paris, must be incredible.
Wow, an exchange for 3 weeks as an eleven-year-old, that is something. You must have been a mature child.
Maybe the business plan is being rekindled for a reason. I hope so!
DS, I'd love you to join me. It works well, too, since you know I'd take the aisle seat. I still haven't gotten the piano book!
We could do literary Paris, and you would have a thing or two to teach me.
Loring, and did you speak at La Defense!? :)
Aunty Sandy, as I said to CottageGirl, grandkids are the adventure I look forward to the most!
Thank you so much, DS, how kind! I ♥ your blog too, you know.
Thank you, dear Gwen! It's a popular photo op, with good reason. Oh Gwen, would I ever love to go to the Orsay museum with you. It's in my top 3 favorite museums (Rodin and Picasso being the other two), mostly because of the space, a converted train station, and that reminds me of you and your talents for recycling spaces and materials. Plus, of course, your artistic talents. Anyway, I do plan to go back, somehow, thank you for your added encouragement.
Oh, Lluvia, what a nice thing to say. Thank you!
And your poem was quite tasty!
Oh dear, MAXIMUS, terrible! Please get better well and fast.
Ohh, I loved Tender is the Night and believe it or not have not read Great Gatsby, no doubt the only 9th grader in the world not to. I hope you can hop over to Paris one day. I loved Athens too when I was there at 19, but almost killed myself slipping on the marble sidewalk in the rain!
No worries, dear Peter, I know you rest from blogging on the weekend. It would be a treat I have thought of many times to meet you there and explore with you. I only wish I had your extensive knowledge of history and architecture for my entire visit. Could you loan me yourself for one week solid??
You are so right about Claudia's blog! Absolutely GORgeous and under-visited. Her photographs are breathtaking, and such an interesting perspective. I'm so happy she came here so I could finally go find hers after seeing her visit rauf's all this time.
How I wish I had experienced "your" Paris when I was there. Perhaps I was too young, too inexperienced. A number of insignificant but unfortunate encounters left me fleeing the city for my life! I hated Paris and Parisians, but loved the countryside, and lost myself in it.
Madrid was quite another story. As long as I have memory I never will forget the afternoons off the Plaza Major, watching the curtains breathe in the late afternoon heat and listening to the bells. Now, I've made decisions which will probably preclude such travel again in my lifetime, but the memories are wonderful.
One week (only)! With pleasure!!!
I'm like you when it comes to speaking French. Every time I know I'm going there I get out the audio and try to learn for months. Only so much sticks. So after saying hello in French, I always ask in French if they speak English.
I'll probably be going back next year with one of my daughters and possibly one of my sisters. It will be their first time to go.
Now I'm off to find Claudia's blog.
Paris is a lovely city. I've never spent longer than a full day there though.
Hi Ruthie,
wonderfull series, your header to start with is as my post today (crocusses March 16th) but your stories and photograpical impressions from PARIS .... hmmmm I enjoy that SO much! Just because I can imagine all of it, The -inside in- the hotel, the famous clock, (I never met Don but he's in the series too) Musee the orsay, well this is yummie stuff. Peter's bloig is indeed THE BEST , when you want to know more about Paris, Your explanation is also unique so I like yours too!
Thnaks for sharing and I come back to follow some more Travels...
Greetings JoAnn/Holland
Glimpses that fill the desire of travel..wonderful ics that took me on a trip to one of the beautiful parts of this world..thankyou Ruth!
we may meet again at
http://mergingpoint.blogspot.com/
Lovely pics... just make one want to go and live in Paris for at least some time!
Ruth, the Orsay Museum sounds fantastic...
I just looked it up... WOW!!.. jaw dropping.. the building alone is magnificent... and the contents something to dream about... I know what I'll be doing for the next while during my free time... taking a virtual tour!! Thank you again for sharing where you have been... it is all so beautiful!!!!
the first photo reminds me of a caldecott medal book, "Hugo Cabret" that just happens to be set in Paris. My daughter added it to her collection last year.
Love this post.
Oh yeah, before I forget, Happy St. Patrick's Day...I know, Paris. Ireland is close though.
Peter! I was only half serious, so how about half a week! :)
You are very generous, thank you for that "one day" possibility.
Oh lucky you, Dakota Bear! I predict you will have so much fun experiencing it with your family, seeing it through their eyes.
Babs, you and your camera would be a terrific team there for longer than a day. Or for five minutes even.
Hi there, JoAnn! Your crocus are vibrant and an important step into spring. I think your climate is something like ours, but a bit more moderate. Yes, Paris is overwhelming, sometimes almost too beautiful for me. I did not need to go back for a while, but I'm getting the need again. Hope you'll come back and see more at the Paris blog.
Merging Point, very kind of you, thank you.
I am glad I met you again, at your stunning blog. I felt connected with the ages, both through your writing and the visuals. Nicely done.
I'm glad you agree, Phoenix, thank you for your kind visit.
Oh, Gwen! Just Degas' ballet girl sculpture alone is worth the visit. You want to touch her "real" tutu.
When I went last time, I walked into the van Gogh gallery and wept. I turned and turned and turned in the middle of the room, feeling the power of blue. I guess I fell in love with blue that day.
Oh dear, I'm sorry, Shoreacres, I skipped right past you, and I was so interested in what you wrote too. I have had a few experiences like that, and I felt full of anger at the time. There is definitely a brusqueness that can come across from certain people, especially in certain professions. I find the waiters can be supercilious, for instance. But I found over time that if I stood up for myself, they would change their tune! Once I experienced it very clearly when a waiter was tsking at me, and I finally confronted him, "what would you like me to order? I am ordering one of everything on the menu, why are you rolling your eyes at me?" And he completely changed his demeanor and treated my sister and me with utmost respect after that. :)
Madrid sounds fantastic. I have never been to Spain. It's good that you have the memories if you can't go back. Our minds are wondrous things.
Oooh, that's cool, SE'LAH, thank you for that comparison. I found it here. They are looking out the same window/clock. There is a terrific view of the Sacré-Cœur basilica on the hill of Montmarte from that window.
I told you after you posted your comment that I added a WEE BIT OF IRELAND slideshow to my sidebar. I have too many Ireland photos to ignore St Paddy's Day. :)
Oh, how wonderful that you added that "wee bit of Ireland" from your travels! So, so lovely...thank you.
You are welcome, dear DS.
May be one day Ruth, I will have an opportunity to see Paris myself. After all you said, I am all up and excited to see Paris myself. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and photos. Anna :)
OMGoodness! I am so happy to see such beauty in your post. Oh, the food, the pictures. How glorious!
I so needed this today.
Merci
Now that I'm in Paris, make that a Café au Lait for me! This is glorious and I'm so glad you will be featuring your wonderful Paris blog here.
Bien tot!
Make that "à bientôt"!
I hope you can, Anna, I think you too will love it.
Yay, Christina, yay!
I'm very glad to have you join me, dear Dutchbaby!
I learned to love Paris because of you, Ruth. I had never been that interested before, only God knows why! I would gladly go back...not alone, of course. Maybe some day we'll be there together again? But it will feel very different, I'm sure....
You lived my fantasy, Ruth.
I have looked at your Paris photos several times so am glad you'dd be adding to them!
That's true, Boots, and I have some wonderful memories of those times with you in Paris. It would be grand to do it again one day.
Thank you so much, Violet.
oops - just in case you were confused it's me: Sanna! I shortened my on-screen name
All the pictures are quite wonderful, but the black & whites are so deliberately archaic that I think you two are on a trysts in Paris just before the Germans march in - a Casablanca moment.
I see that now, Sanna, thank you. :)
Montag, I think something like that must have been in my subconscious intention.
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